Le Vieux Versailles, or Old Versailles, is not the Royal City’s oldest neighborhood. The medieval village acquired by King Louis XIII once stood there, but most of it was destroyed in the 17th century. Occupying the streets to the south-east of the Château, Old Versailles is ideal for meandering and admiring elegant 17th and 18th century architecture: sober grey and beige stone into which decorative medallions, garland, and faces are carved, cast iron railings and balconies, touches of blue and ochre that draw our eyes up the buildings and to the sky.
For history lovers, a visit to La Salle du Jeu de Paume is a must. Constructed by the royal family in 1686, the Salle was one of the first sporting centers in France. A precursor to tennis, “palm ball” was invented in France and initially played without racquets. In 1789, 578 Frenchmen met in this spacious room, declared themselves to be the National Assembly, and swore to stay together until they had drafted a constitution for France. Now known as the “Tennis Court Oath”, this moment was key in the lead up to the French Revolution. The Salle is open for visits on Tuesday-Sunday afternoons from 2-5:30. Admission is free.
Relatively new to the neighborhood, the Cour des Senteurs is a calm courtyard dedicated to the art of perfume and upscale shopping. The Maison des Parfums offers a simple introduction to the history of perfume, and the quiet urban garden offers respite from a day of touring. Admission is free to both. Michelin starred restaurant La Table du 11 is located in the courtyard; reservations are essential.
The bustling pedestrian zone rue de Satory offers a number of dining options. A future post will list some of the rue de Satory’s best restaurants.
Allison’s Tips
Access: The Vieux Versailles quarter borders the Château property. Standing in the Place des Armes with your back to the Château, the neighborhood will be behind you and to your right.
Allow 1-3 hours to explore Vieux Versailles.
As you stroll through the area, there is no need to follow a prescribed route. Rather, let brown tourist signage serve as a loose guide: La Cour des Senteurs, La Salle du Jeu de Paume, La rue Satory.
As soon as I stepped into the theater, a sumptuous hush fell over me.
In its opulence, the Royal Opera of Versailles is somehow cozy. The rocaille swoops and curves impart lightness, and the gold warms. The chandelier light is soft. The 18th century theater is made of wood and holds 712 spectators. We had gathered to watch Barry Douglas and the Camerata Ireland perform three of Mozart’s Piano Concertos (20, 23, 25). As people made their way to their narrow, velvety seats, the theater got warmer and our reverent anticipation heightened.
Although Mozart and the Royal Opera are linked to a specific time and place—18th century Europe—the evening felt timeless and placeless. I was alone, yet surrounded. I was in France, and I was elsewhere. The fragile space and ephemeral sound brought on a happy clarity, unbound by geography and time.
Inspirations
Official website of the Opéra Royal de Versailles
Official website of Camerata Ireland
